Launched in 2006, the Nautilus 5980 was the first chronograph added to the collection and featured Patek Philippe’s first in-house automatic movement, which made its debut in the same year. While the 40.5 mm case of the Nautilus ref. 5980 features two push-piece hands, as is the case with most traditional chronographs, the dial is cleverly designed to include only a sub-register suitable for past minutes and hours. Compressing the chronograph functions into a single register leaves enough space for the date window at 3 o’clock.
The Nautilus Chronograph is currently available in three versions: all rose gold, all rose gold, all rose gold, all rose gold. 5980, all rose gold, rose gold with the leather strap, rose gold, and stainless steel two-tone, all water-resistant to 120 meters and with a power reserve rating of 45 – 55 hours.
The Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5900 joined the collection in 2014 as an evolution of the Ref. 5980. In addition to its chronograph function, the Ref. 5900 also boasts a practical travel time complication in addition to its chronograph function. Travel time is Patek Philippe’s approach to dual time zone replica watches, with both the local time and reference time hour hands placed in the center, the latter being skeletonized to show the difference. What’s more, there are also “home time” and “local time” day/night windows at 3 and 9 o’clock respectively, not to mention a local date subdial at 12 o’clock and an elapsed minutes counter at 6 o’clock.
In particular, the 5990/1A has a case in steel with a diameter of 40.5 mm and a pair of chronograph pushers on the right side, and a pair of pushers on the left side that jump the hour hand in one-hour increments.
In 2018, Patek Philippe introduced the first grand complication model for the Nautilus collection in the form of the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 5740/1G-001.) The combination of Patek Philippe’s signature complications with the dynamic Nautilus silhouette is not only a powerful pairing, but it is also noteworthy that the 40 mm case of the Ref. 5740 measures just 8 mm. The 5740’s 40 mm case is just 8.42 mm thick, thanks to the ultra-thin Caliber 240 Q movement housed in the case.
The case of the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar is water-resistant to a depth of 60 meters. The case is made of platinum and the bracelet is made of platinum. In contrast to the white precious metal exterior, the sunlit blue dial features three sub-dials representing the day, day, month, leap year, phase, and 24-hour indication.
Although the Nautilus is available for women and as a special reference stone in ammonite, these are the six major references in the current men’s Nautilus collection. Whether in the form of a simple time/date or as a complex perpetual calendar, the unique design of Patek Philippe’s famous sports watches is instantly recognizable.